Beiträge von Muffler82

Frohe Ostern to all forum mates!

Simone

I rephrase the question for the second match: will someone among forum mates come to Florence to see Fiorentina - Bayern München?

Simone

I forgot: the screws I replaced the old ones with are made of zinc plated steel. Not sure about the material of original ones (does anyone know?) but I preferred to avoid installing stainless steel screws - if something wants to get stripped anyway, I prefer that a screws does, instead of its metal tab's nut

@Christian: figurati per il ritardo, nessun problema

Cheers! to all

Simone

Ich verstehe nicht, Chrille! Könnten Sie bitte erklären?

Anyway, I've solved! And I'm very happy about it
I've put some more force in pushing down the bolt while turning it, and it came out.
Here's a pic of the three bolts:

[Blockierte Grafik: http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/615/75121757.th.jpg]

The one on the right is the one that drove me mad. As you can see, the one in the middle was beginning to get stripped, too. There was only one good out of three - the one on the left.
As the bolt didn't come out easily, I've re-thread the metal tab with an M6 tap to straight every possible metal burr, and since I was there I've re-threaded the other 2 tabs, too
Then three new bolts and washers, job done. Evvai!

Thanks for answering! Cheers!

Simone

As in title, I've made a mess.

I was refitting the sumpguard before going to supper, just after changing oil&filter, and while tightening the rear bolt (the one under the engine) I've stripped the thread. I think it already was at a good point by itself because I haven't forced it too much. Anyway, I don't know exactly which thread has gone between the one on the bolt and the one on the welded metal tab, but I guess the one on the bolt has because it doesn't want to come out (if the metal tab's thread had been stripped instead, the bolt should come out quite easily, or at least I think so).
And this is the problem, because if I'll be able to find a way to take that @#* bolt out I could easily re-thread the hole, if damaged, or simply replace the bolt. I've already tried by turning the bolt with a spanner, while pushing it out through the hole in the sumpguard, but nothing has happened.
The curious thing is that I didn't want to remove the sumpguard either, but I did because a little amount of oil dripped inside it and I wanted to clean ...

Every suggestion is appreciated.

Simone

Will someone among forum mates go to watch Bayern München-Fiorentina?

Simone

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSIzWe33kpw

Simone

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all forum mates!

Simone

Thanks a lot for answering!

I've then bought a Motad some day ago, I've already installed. I've had to bother a little with it as it seemed that its mounting holes didn't coincide with those ones on the bike. To make a long story short, I've drilled 2 more holes on the silencer's bracket... Haven't tried yet as Vergaser is still down, I hope I'll do asap.

@ Christian - Ciao Christian! Ho dovuto rinunciare al Dunstall a causa di interferenze con il dado della ruota posteriore, e con il pedale del freno se premuto a fondo. Meglio non rischiare. Queste cose, sommate al fatto che non era omologato, mi hanno fatto desistere dal continuare a perderci tempo.

Ho provato a cercare in rete per il prossimo raduno XT500 ma non ho trovato niente! Dove lo fanno?

Ho ricevuto due chiamate in settimana da un 328-047xxxx che non è nella mia rubrica, eri tu?... Fammi sapere!

Saluti da Vinci! Simone

(ENG - Hello Christian! I've given up with Dunstall because of interferences with rear wheel's nut, and with brake pedal if fully pressed. Better to be on the safe side. These things, added to the fact that it's not road legal, made me deciding to stop loosing time with it.

I've tried to look on the Internet for next XT500 meeting but haven't found nothing! Where will it take place?

I've received two calls during the week from 328-047xxxx which is not in my numbers list, were it you?... Let me know!

Greetings from Vinci! Simone)

I was wondering about Motad silencer. Is there anyone among forum mates who have it installed and want to post some pics, and/or write some impressions?

Thanks!

Cheers

Simone (who is still bothering with his Dunstall replica, but is beginning to think about some slip-on road-legal alternatives... )

Here I am again...
I've compared better my pedal with 48T one, I confirm that they look the same. So there aren't differences between 2J4 and 48T pedals... or maybe I've a 48T pedal installed and I didn't know

I've made a bracket from a piece of square-sectioned steel, I think 2mm thick is enough. Here are some pics, has to be finished yet - drilling and painting...

[Blockierte Grafik: http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/4323/15212655.th.jpg] [Blockierte Grafik: http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/3761/75556466.th.jpg]

Cheers!

Simone

Perfect! Good to know. (You've got PM Christian :))

Update: I've got the 48T pedal pics but I haven't compared well yet, at a quick glance they look more or less the same.
I've bolt a straight chromed bracket that came with the silencer on and saw that its rear end stays just under the standard bracket. If everything works fine (not least, brake pedal's travel) I'll bolt on an angled bracket to connect the two.

Cheers!

Simone

I've read various times on the net about burning steel, here I'd like to bust a myth (taken deliberately from Discovery Channel's "Mythbusters" :)) as not all steel sponges burns like most people think. That's all about sponge filaments' thickness: the thicker the filaments, the more difficult the sponge will set on fire.
I've realised a simple video some minute ago, here you can see the difference: the first sponge type is the kind I've used to cover the baffle, the second type is another kind I have close at hand. You can guess by watching that the first's filaments are a lot thicker than the second's ones, in fact only the second sponge gets burnt. There's absolutely no damage on the first sponge (just sooty) and it's been placed directly on the flame, a more heavy condition than the ones inside a silencer (at least, not so heavy I hope ;)).

Here's a pic of my baffle:

[Blockierte Grafik: http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/913/46938587.th.jpg]

Yours, Hetzer, is covered with very thin filaments wool (a little bit thicker then the ones of video's second sponge I guess) maybe it's the reason why it's loud, as if wool is too thin it could plug the baffle's holes.

Cheers!

Simone

Target hit, Hetzer it's a Dunstall replica. I've replaced the poor inner glass wool with steel sponges (the same used to clean pots, like this) by stacking them on the baffle, hoping to help it to kill noise. How is yours built?
I've found a video showing a Dunstall replica installation: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRuQtK3B408 . Right it's just half of an SR's engine, but the noise coming out without silencer is incredible anyway. There you can feel the difference too between old and new suppressing material. (That's to hope that it will work, obviously :D)

I'll ask a mate who owns a 48T about the pedal. In the meanwhile here's another pic of my bike

[Blockierte Grafik: http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/5269/98560806.th.jpg]

It's substantially a standard one, except for some add-ons (oil temp gauge, handle for centre stand, double direct lubrication) and mods (braided front brake hose, covered in black heatshrink to preserve the "retro" look).
I am now keeping myself busy with both silencer and carb, the first because of its price from new as stated before, the second because I've had quite enough of all its pumps - valves - diaphragms... Was thinking about installing a VM34-168 but I have to think well.

Cheers!

Simone

Hi,
Thanks to all for answering. Here are some new pics:

[Blockierte Grafik: http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/7861/40462193.th.jpg] This is the silencer, wrapped in fabric and duct tape to prevent it from scratching during installation tests. The upper part is where fitting bolts should go in, normally it stays on side, I've turned it up to show better.
[Blockierte Grafik: http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/648/46202110.th.jpg] and a closeup (despite of mud ) [Blockierte Grafik: http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/5811/70194069.th.jpg] here you can just see the standard bracket and the silencer's mounting point, this time it's turned in its right place.
[Blockierte Grafik: http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/3527/58635085.th.jpg] Same as before but viewed from the other lower side. As you can see standard bracket and silencer fitting point are only a few cms far the one from the other.

I thought to "L" shape because of this: the long L arm should be bolted on the silencer, while the short arm should be bent 90° and then bolted on the original bracket. Surely with 4 holes (2+2 as Hannsen says) to prevent the silencer from loosening.

As Wolfgang guessed, the silencer in previous post's pics isn't the aftermarket one but the original one. It's waiting for been cleaned, polished, and then carefully put aside... since the price to pay to have a brand new one 8o...

And... what about lenghtening the exhaust manifold with a tube? Doing so, I could align bracket's and silencer's mounting points and solve with a simple bracket to add... And, very important, I could gain some more gap between silencer and brake pedal, as I've seen that if I'd install silencer now as-it-is the pedal nearly hits the exhaust if fully pressed.

Cheers!

Simone

Hello mates,
It's some time I have a question in my mind. I've got an aftermarket silencer to install on my SR, and since holes where bolts go through are not in the same place of original silencer ones, I have to made a special bracket.
I've made 2 pics in the morning, showing the more likely places to bolt on: as you can see #1 is the original silencer bracket, #2 is the frame's part where rear brake's stop nut is welded on. Installing on #1 means I'd have to make a sort of L-shaped bracket, with the L's "long leg" pointing toward the front of the bike; #2 means I'd have to make a much shorter bracket, as new silencer's bolting holes are under the aforementioned rear brake's nut. And I'd have to use some metal belt wrapping the frame to join it to the bracket.

[Blockierte Grafik: http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/273/56856105.th.jpg] [Blockierte Grafik: http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/835/44457172.th.jpg]

Which one do you think could be better?
(Other solutions are obviously welcome!)

Cheers!

Simone

Perfect, so I think this subject hasn't been discussed yet hehe... Tipps, tricks, suggestions, and so are obviously welcome, then.
Thanks all the way for answering, Oliver, I already had a procedure similar to the one on Kedo's page, it was for 2-Takt engines but it's conceptually the same.

Cheers

Simone

Hello,
I need a help! I was looking for some tips and maybe "base" jetting indications for a Mikuni VM34-168 I'd like to install on my SR. I've looked around on the forum but I didn't find anything, maybe I used wrong key words for searching, or a wrong words' combination.
Does anybody of you remember if this thema has been already discussed?

Cheers

Simone

The 11th National Italian XT500 Meeting took place during last weekend. Rider's meeting place was Calci, in the province of Pisa (Tuscany).

I went there on Saturday morning to meet some of XT "cousins" . Here you can find some pics I made, while clicking on the following link will lead you to a short video I made too: Kick kick, hurrah

Cheers

Simone

Happy Easter to every SR rider!

Cheers

Simone