Beiträge von Muffler82

Here I am,
I tried with nail and hammer trick and fuel float pivot has finally come off! I've just put some sprays of WD40 to help it working, no heating was necessary.

Now I'm bothering with the float valve seat pulling out: I've tried with pliers again, but nothing has happen; then with a screw driven in the seat, and after half an hour of pulling I've noticed that it came off only for a pair of millimeters ... I'll keep on with that method.

Thanks again for suggestions. Greetings!

Simone

Hello!
I tried to extract the axle by grabbing it with a pair of pliers (from right side), but nothing happened. I'll try by gently hitting it with nail and hammer, as you said.
Maybe a good soaking in penetrating oil could help too, as a little warm up of the part (Aluminium's dilatation coefficient is higher than Steel's one).

I'll let you know. Thanks!

Greetings

Simone

Hello,
As I wrote in the other thread, I took off the rubber Ansaugstutzen from my 1981 SR. Since that, I decided to take off the carburettor too, to see if everything was fine.
I then tried to dismantle the fuel float, but its pivot is stuck in its place! How can I take this little axle off?
Here you have a pair of pics: carburettor is standard Mikuni VM34SS fitted in Yamaha.

[Blockierte Grafik: http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/5143/vergaser01ow0.th.jpg]

[Blockierte Grafik: http://img238.imageshack.us/img238/3649/vergaser02vf3.th.jpg]

Can anybody help me?

Greetings!

News
I've tried the "spray-on-Ansaugstutzen" trick in the afternoon: speed didn't increase very much, but the engine began staying on at idle without any problem.

Anyway, it keeps on misfiring when I turn the grip

I've then dismantled the Ansaugstutzen to check its effective conditions: it's really bad... I've already ordered a new one, obviously with new gasket. I've also took off the carb to check if it's allright inside.

I'll keep you updated.

Greetings

Muffler

(P.S. Since I like to torment my brain, I'm preparing a self-made circuit to install an alternator warning light on my SR. I'll let you know about this trifle, too...)

Zitat

Original von Hudriwudri
hello simone

come stai?? spero bene

secondo me try the trick with the break cleaner since "IF" you have a vacuum leak then the speed will increase substantially.
And if the gomme di farfallati is as old as i think it is than time to change it anyways.
Otherwise or anyways listen to svens tips.

ciao

christian

PS: And if worse comes to worse im in may in firenze

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Hallo Christian!

Alles gut, danke. What about you?

Yes, the intake rubber manifold is very old. I fear it's the same they installed in Yamaha in 1981 ...

Kustomweekend! I'll try to get there, but I'm not promising anything: my girlfriend and her family are moving to a new house, so it's very likely I'll have to stay and help them.

Greetings!

Simone

Zitat

Original von sven
Ignition setup o.k.?

It looked OK, but I didn't check thoroughly. I'll take a closer look.

Zitat

Original von sven

That's the way the Stutzen normally looks.

Normally, they don't.

Why don't you just try and adjust a little higher idle speed?

Regards
Sven

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Hmm. I don't think it's something related to low idle speed: it's true that if I twist the grip a little (= set the idle speed a bit higher) the engine doesn't stop, but it it starts backfiring.

Greetings

Simone

Zitat

Original von sven

Nice! (you know you can buy these hoses with colored (or black or translucide) coatings?).
Now paint the wheels completely black to give the bike an even better (cooler) look!

Regards
Sven

Thanks! Yes, I knew, but my spare parts dealer only had the kind covered with transparent coating . So I had to solve... "coating the coating" ...

Greetings

Hello,
Thanks for the answer. I've checked the rubber joints: while the one between air filter and carb looks OK, the Ansaugstutzen between carb and engine head is full of little cracks. I don't know if they reach the inner side of the rubber... Also noticed that, although the circular metal retainer around the Ansaugstutzen is very tight, the carb moves slightly if twisted a little bit.

I'll try the spray-test and the high voltage check. I'll let you know ASAP.

Thanks!

Done!
The brake hose you see is made of braided steel: I then covered it with a black heatshrink sleeve to mask the steel's bright finish and to preserve the bike's "retro" look.

Here are two photos of the polished fork tubes that I installed during last week's spare time

[Blockierte Grafik: http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/4539/gabel01pk0.th.jpg]

[Blockierte Grafik: http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/9254/gabel02nf8.th.jpg]

Hello,
After six months of sleep my SR has starting to roar again on this morning ...
... but... something doesn't seem OK.
Here's the problem: although the engine is hot, is runs only with choke middle opened. If I release the choke, it slows down and then stops.

I've tried to check with Colortune, here's what it says:
- choke on, flame is orange-ish (obviously, rich mixture);
- choke off, flame is blue-ish. It should indicate right mixture, but as I wrote before the engine slows down and after a little it stops. It keeps on running only if I twist the grip a little bit but, doing that, the engine backfires.

(Engine is as factory fitted, standard air filter and muffler.)

Could it be something connect to lean carburation? I remember that something like this happened also during last times I started the bike, but in a very minor way.

Can anybody help me?

Greetings!

Perfect!
Thanks to all for answers!

PS for Christian: very good for the stickers' thing! I'm happy for you!
I've already bought the allthreads on eBay, I'm waiting for them to arrive. Thanks anyway for ARP-Bolts link!

Greetings

Simone

Zitat

Original von Hudriwudri

hi simone,

i would not assume so especially under the consideration that you mount them with some white lithiumgrease that hinders the corrosion.

ciao a presto

christian

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Hello Christian! How are you?

Couldn't it be dangerous to grease those threads (i.e. for studs self-loosening)?

Another curiosity:
Could the use of stainless steel stud-bolts cause corrosion troubles in the threaded contact area between them and the Alu fork tubes? I've read something about that in the Bucheli Projekt that makes me doubtful...

Just a curiosity about the same stud-bolts:
Does anyone know what material the original ones are made of?

Zitat

Original von ralfi
[...] But nethertheless with a little bit improvisation it fits

God Save His Majesty the Hammer

for the answers!

Greetings

Muffler

Hello everybody!
Does anyone know if there are differences between 2J4 and 48T Benzintank?

Greetings

Muffler

(P.S. for Hudriwudri: your incoming private message box is full!)

Thanks to you all for answering!
I'll try to pull out the old studs, and if they decide to remain where they are I'll buy them new.

Thanks again

(PS for Hudriwudri: I've answered to PM !)