Hallo!
I hope its okay to write in english. Didn´t pay enough attention in my german-lessons. (So sorry) 
Late summer, 2011 i bought a 48T from 1993. (From Germany) Sadly, its only a 17 kW. So I am trying to get some tips on how i can make it a bit faster and stronger, without destoying the engine and stability.
I hope you can lead me in the right direction.
I will try and find the right places to post my questions
Claus
Denmark
Hi Claus and welcome !
I hope google translate will do the job without too many misunderstandings...
Cheers
Wolfgang
Welcome
(Jeg snakker ikke dansk, men jeg håper at du forstår lit norsk 
Thanks
Tried Google Translate. It just made it worse. Well okay....I do understand a little german. But not enough to understand all the technical stuff. And certainly not enough to write in german.
Det er bra
Norsk og dansk er jo nesten lik
Dags og hjerteligt velkommen!
I nødvendig vi også tale dansk endnu i skrive jeg er ikke so god.
Lothar
hi there and wellkome to the circle of mad kickers of the one and only real stew, which you can´t eat. 
okay, I am not familary with the streetrestrictions for denmark but first try to by an old CDI from the early types. for example a 1991 model. then a VM34ss carburator. at least a new intake air duct, the gum between clynder and carburator. for that check KEDO, link on this pages top left, broschure also available in english.
all this updates will give you 4-5 hp more, not verry exspensive but effective.
good luck.
sorry top right, not left, not left.
Thank you all for the warm welcome
I have been given som good tips on how to increase power/performance. Here and on email.
I think i will start with the intake (between the carb and cylinder). Do i need to rejet the carb? Or can i run with it, as it is?
I have been recommended to change the airfilter to a K&N.
Next i will put on a more "potent" muffler. For sound....and hopefully a little more power.
The downpipe is 45 mm, where the muffler connects. And 48 mm further back. The seller told me that the downpipe was from an older model.
These things are pretty cheap. And i hope to stick with that. I´m not to keen on changing the piston and cams, since my skills are very basic. :o)
(I know a little bit from the 90´s when i had a 1979 Yamaha FS1 4 gear moped) :o)
By the way: Danish laws sucks, and are pretty strict, when it comes to changing ANYTHING on a motorbike (or car for that matter) But as long as lights and numberplates are placed correctly and safety is okay, they normally won´t do anything. And if your vehicle doesn´t make to much noise, they will let you go. So it is a balance act :o) So about the muffler, i hope to find a fairly cheap one, that won´t make to much noise. But still sounds potent and deep.
Hello to Denmark 
before ordering and changing parts, you might first want to check which modelyear your SR500 is.
if it was registered in 1993 it does not necessarily mean it has been build in this year...could have been 2-3 years at shop, wouldnt be too unusual.
you can check this by framenumber
there have been quite some changes, not sure if 91 or 93, due to regulations changing on noise and emission
not all of the changes led to lower power.
e.g somewhen cdi was changed, that might have been just due to changes on alternator, but as far as I know it does not limit rpm
for you worst changes are:
-cam: different timing and less stroke
-piston: lower compression
that can be changed, but is, if not done by yourself, quite costintensive
I once drove an sr that was changed from the 24hp to the "open" 27hp with Wunderlich kit (former customer in Germany)
did not feel like an old sr 500...
without changing piston, cam, maybe also carb and maybe muffler (has different number, not sure if due to reduction of hp or just some "whatsoever" changes) , I dont think you will make the full power
sorry if this is not answer you have expected
from my personal view newer models are nice as often in quite good condition, and a good bike for one who just wants to enjoy a classic bike without any changes
older models do have more power and (at least over here) do offer more possibilities of changes, like other carbs, mufflers etc
as "search" function is in German, I add here link to serial ubers for your refference
Thanks! I´ll check the frame number soon, to see if it really is a 17 kW.
By the way: If i want to lower the rpm at cruising speed, is it posible to put on a rear sprocket that is 2-3 teeth lower? Or will my 17 kW be to weak to handle that gearing?
(Also want to change the rear sprocket, to one with holes in it, so i will be able to use a compact lock, that way, not having disc brakes and posibility of using a disc brake lock.)
Hi Claus!
Yes it is possible to change the gears. But you should keep in mind, that it is not favorable to run the engine below 3000rpm because it wears out the engine.
I´ll keep that in mind. Actually, i can´t remember what rpm it runs with, at 80 km/h i 5th gear, as it is now. But i don´t think that it is under 3000 rpm.
I have been looking at a AFAM rear sprocket. Is that good quality? I don´t know what pitch my 48T runs with. But the sprocket i´ve been looking at, is #520
...okay. I´m a bit confused :o) I can see its a 55 teeth rearsprocket on my bike. And looking at AFAMs page, it is pitch #428. Is that correct?
hej
if you have 55 at rear its the 428, we call it "bicycle chain"
the choice on different sprockets is quite low.
you can change sprockets and chain to 420, like xt500, there are lots of sprockets available
530 is standard on former sr500, actually thats oversice, 420 is absolutly sufficient and has lower loss of power from engine to wheel....
5th gear is already in factary ratio an overdrive...
with 17kw I personally wouldnt go for longer ratio, but for shorter, better acceleration in low gear and can shift earlier to upper gear for fuel saving at cruising speed
428 a bicycle chain?? 
Because its thinner? I actually think it looks pretty thick, the one that is on now.
well, width is like 420, but division is even shorter, thats why for same diameter sprockets have more tooth
the 530 is even bigger.....
a 420 without o-rings is smaler, lighter, eats less of the little sr500 power, but needs much more maintainence
might be the cheapest options to have as much as possible of the 17kw on wheel...
if you maintain it well (lubrication, tension)
Ich dachte, die XT-Kette ist 520, nicht 420.
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