Fitting an aftermarket silencer

  • Hello mates,
    It's some time I have a question in my mind. I've got an aftermarket silencer to install on my SR, and since holes where bolts go through are not in the same place of original silencer ones, I have to made a special bracket.
    I've made 2 pics in the morning, showing the more likely places to bolt on: as you can see #1 is the original silencer bracket, #2 is the frame's part where rear brake's stop nut is welded on. Installing on #1 means I'd have to make a sort of L-shaped bracket, with the L's "long leg" pointing toward the front of the bike; #2 means I'd have to make a much shorter bracket, as new silencer's bolting holes are under the aforementioned rear brake's nut. And I'd have to use some metal belt wrapping the frame to join it to the bracket.


    [Blockierte Grafik: http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/273/56856105.th.jpg] [Blockierte Grafik: http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/835/44457172.th.jpg]


    Which one do you think could be better?
    (Other solutions are obviously welcome!)


    Cheers!


    Simone

  • I would use the 1st version. But why the "L"? Isn't a flat piece of metal better? With four holes in it? Two for the screws of the bracket from the rear footpegs and two for the bracket of the silencer? Should work "molto bene" in my eyes :)
    greetings
    Hannes

  • That isn't the aftermarket silencer in the pic, right?


    Would be fine if you could make a photo of the silencer next to the bike. I can't imagine why you need to use the postion of the stop nut for mounting the silencer. Is it a really short one? If it doesn't give the bike a really awful look, i would try to make use of the original mounting point. It was designed for it, and the muffler is hold in place at its front by the exhaust manifold anyway. No additional mount needed there. Better to place the second mount nearer to the rear of the bike, to prevent the rear part of the exhaust from swinging.


    looking forward for a pic of the exhaust!
    Wolfgang

  • Hi,
    Thanks to all for answering. Here are some new pics:


    [Blockierte Grafik: http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/7861/40462193.th.jpg] This is the silencer, wrapped in fabric and duct tape to prevent it from scratching during installation tests. The upper part is where fitting bolts should go in, normally it stays on side, I've turned it up to show better.
    [Blockierte Grafik: http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/648/46202110.th.jpg] and a closeup (despite of mud :tongue:) [Blockierte Grafik: http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/5811/70194069.th.jpg] here you can just see the standard bracket and the silencer's mounting point, this time it's turned in its right place.
    [Blockierte Grafik: http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/3527/58635085.th.jpg] Same as before but viewed from the other lower side. As you can see standard bracket and silencer fitting point are only a few cms far the one from the other.


    I thought to "L" shape because of this: the long L arm should be bolted on the silencer, while the short arm should be bent 90° and then bolted on the original bracket. Surely with 4 holes (2+2 as Hannsen says) to prevent the silencer from loosening.


    As Wolfgang guessed, the silencer in previous post's pics isn't the aftermarket one but the original one. It's waiting for been cleaned, polished, and then carefully put aside... since the price to pay to have a brand new one 8o...



    And... what about lenghtening the exhaust manifold with a tube? Doing so, I could align bracket's and silencer's mounting points and solve with a simple bracket to add... And, very important, I could gain some more gap between silencer and brake pedal, as I've seen that if I'd install silencer now as-it-is the pedal nearly hits the exhaust if fully pressed.


    Cheers!


    Simone

  • Zitat

    Original von Muffler82
    what about lenghtening the exhaust manifold with a tube?


    It looks like a (loud) Dunstall type "silencer".
    Yes, with a tube it´s no problem, but longer.


    Look at mine (not exactly the same) :
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HhQ5gydGslQ

  • Ah now i got it. I thought you wanted to attach the silencer with the bracket to the upper side, which should be possible, but of course that doesn't look that good.
    By the way, i'm not shure, but i heard that the brake pedal of the newer version 48T should leave a little more space for the silencer. Maybe you know somebody with a newer SR 500 (1984 - 1999). You should try this first.
    And give us a pic from the hole Bike! Any other Modifications?


    tanti saluti,
    Hannes

  • Target hit, Hetzer :) it's a Dunstall replica. I've replaced the poor inner glass wool with steel sponges (the same used to clean pots, like this) by stacking them on the baffle, hoping to help it to kill noise. How is yours built?
    I've found a video showing a Dunstall replica installation: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRuQtK3B408 . Right it's just half of an SR's engine, but the noise coming out without silencer is incredible anyway. There you can feel the difference too between old and new suppressing material. (That's to hope that it will work, obviously :D)


    I'll ask a mate who owns a 48T about the pedal. In the meanwhile here's another pic of my bike :)


    [Blockierte Grafik: http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/5269/98560806.th.jpg]


    It's substantially a standard one, except for some add-ons (oil temp gauge, handle for centre stand, double direct lubrication) and mods (braided front brake hose, covered in black heatshrink to preserve the "retro" look).
    I am now keeping myself busy with both silencer and carb, the first because of its price from new as stated before, the second because I've had quite enough of all its pumps - valves - diaphragms... Was thinking about installing a VM34-168 but I have to think well.


    Cheers!


    Simone

  • I got the Dunstall, too. But I replaced the long inner pipe with a shorter, more massive one, because the old one simply broke away. The bracket i made is a simple plate of steel, bent 90°.
    I think the steel sponges going to burn when you drive a little longer, you can ignite them with a standart lighter. They don't last very long in that heat.

  • I've read various times on the net about burning steel, here I'd like to bust a myth (taken deliberately from Discovery Channel's "Mythbusters" :)) as not all steel sponges burns like most people think. That's all about sponge filaments' thickness: the thicker the filaments, the more difficult the sponge will set on fire.
    I've realised a simple video some minute ago, here you can see the difference: the first sponge type is the kind I've used to cover the baffle, the second type is another kind I have close at hand. You can guess by watching that the first's filaments are a lot thicker than the second's ones, in fact only the second sponge gets burnt. There's absolutely no damage on the first sponge (just sooty) and it's been placed directly on the flame, a more heavy condition than the ones inside a silencer (at least, not so heavy I hope ;)).


    Here's a pic of my baffle:


    [Blockierte Grafik: http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/913/46938587.th.jpg]


    Yours, Hetzer, is covered with very thin filaments wool (a little bit thicker then the ones of video's second sponge I guess) maybe it's the reason why it's loud, as if wool is too thin it could plug the baffle's holes.


    Cheers!


    Simone

  • ciao simone


    be assured these can not catch on fire sind they have a high nickel content, so nothing can happen.


    ciao e saluti d genova


    christian

    And I believed in Joe when he said we had to fight
    And I believed in Jimmy when he told us to unite

  • Perfect! Good to know. (You've got PM Christian :))


    Update: I've got the 48T pedal pics but I haven't compared well yet, at a quick glance they look more or less the same.
    I've bolt a straight chromed bracket that came with the silencer on and saw that its rear end stays just under the standard bracket. If everything works fine (not least, brake pedal's travel) I'll bolt on an angled bracket to connect the two.


    Cheers!


    Simone

  • Here I am again...
    I've compared better my pedal with 48T one, I confirm that they look the same. So there aren't differences between 2J4 and 48T pedals... or maybe I've a 48T pedal installed and I didn't know :)


    I've made a bracket from a piece of square-sectioned steel, I think 2mm thick is enough. Here are some pics, has to be finished yet - drilling and painting...


    [Blockierte Grafik: http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/4323/15212655.th.jpg] [Blockierte Grafik: http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/3761/75556466.th.jpg]


    Cheers!


    Simone

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